Pho, of course, is the classic soup noodle from Vietnam. It is one of the most popular noodle dishes in the world, enjoying millions of steady followers in all culinary corners on earth. Despite being an unusual dish in world standards and one that is so obviously designed for the Asian palate, pho has found its own special place in the global cuisine. There's always been a relationship between Vietnam and France, so it is no surprise that this noodle dish has become popular in France too, a country whose culinary features are largely different from those of Vietnam's.
Vietnam and France
Pho can be traced back to the 1880s and to northern Vietnam. Its spread in popularity was propelled when Vietnam was divided in 1954, when northern refugees brought the staple dish with them to the south. Years later in 1975, pho followed a larger wave of refugees outside of Vietnam, and from there, traveled to the United States and other continents, and to Europe where it reached the borders of France.
It is said that pho is more than just a culinary visitor in France. Several food experts have likened it to the famous French pot-au-feu or "feu," which, in fact, is a likely origin of the name "pho." This means that even before the dish itself reached the French territory, the two already went way back, particularly during the 100-year period of French colonization in Vietnam.
The French pot-au-feu is a steamy stew consisting of a broth, beef flank, and a variety of vegetables that ranged from root to leafy varieties. In most aspects, it is very much like the Vietnamese noodle dish. But there are strong differences between them. Pot-au-feu is usually eaten in a guided manner, and anywhere in France where you order the dish, the waiters will instruct you on how it should be enjoyed. On the other hand, eating pho is a bit more freewheeling and adventurous. Back in its native Vietnam, the noodle is sold out on street kiosks and the true pho experience is eating the whole lot in a small and noisy restaurant surrounded by people and the telltale aroma of beef broth.
Pho in France
In France, pho is especially famous in Paris' Chinatown found in the 13th arrondissement. The area is considered as the main quarters of Asia in the country, and is teeming with Asian culture and business activities. It has become a cultural landmark home to both Asian and French natives, all of which are bound together by a love for the distinct Asian culture, and of course, the cuisine.
Here you will find various noodle houses and all sorts of Asian restaurants, including a number of pho restaurants such as Pho Banh-Cuon 14 just right at the entrance of Chinatown. Located at 129 Avenue de Choisy, not far from Tolbiac, this restaurant is one of the most popular pho restaurants in Paris, though it is certainly not the only one. The restaurant offers a healthy selection of pho options as well as other Vietnamese and Asian culinary treats.
Pho Banh-Cuon 14's menu is what you would expect from a good pho restaurant, with choices of various combination of beef meat slices and organs. After choosing your preferred beef cuts, you can choose between a grand bowl or a petit bowl, though the difference is not that much; even the petit bowl is extremely gratifying given the affordable price. During off-peak hours, the restaurant is usually full. In fact, finding a table can sometimes be a challenge, especially during breakfast and lunch times.
Another popular and well-reviewed pho location at the 13th is Le Bambou, located at 70 rue Baudricourt. Their pho tastes great, and the dishes are reasonably priced. Also, Le Bambou has a noticeably larger menu than other restaurants in the area, though in terms of authenticity, Pho Banh-Cuon 14 still wins more praises from true-blue pho fans alike.
The Chinatown area in Paris is not the only place to find great pho. This hearty noodle dish can also be found in another Asian community in Paris, located around the metro Belleville quarter. The area lies at the junction of the 11th, 12th, 19th, and 20th arrondissement and is an area full of Southeast Asian restaurants offering cuisines from Thailand, China, and Vietnam since the 80's. With more French nationals learning to appreciate Vietnamese pho on top of the already existing Viet clientele, pho restaurants are doing good business. One popular Vietnamese restaurant in Belleville is the Hawaienne where you can enjoy great-tasting Vietnamese food including pho. The restaurant is located at 15 rue Louis Bonnet at the 11th arrondissement.
Obviously, pho restaurants in France are not limited to the Asian quarters in the country. Like many places outside of Vietnam including the U.S., Canada and Australia, you will find Vietnamese restaurants where Vietnamese live as they are scattered in various places around France. When in Paris, check out the My-Tho Vietnamese Restaurant, Le Lotus Bleu, among many others. You will also find the Pho 83 at 17 Avenue Colbert in Toulon, France. Aside from that, pho restaurants, or Vietnamese restaurants in general, can also be found in shopping malls for that quick food stop in the middle of a shopping spree.
France, being a country very much in tune with its own culinary personality, is much too fond of the classic Vietnamese pho. This is quite evident, given all the pho restaurants in the country, and the equally proliferating number of people in these restaurants. This means that even though you're in France, there's no reason not to enjoy a steaming bowl of Vietnamese pho. Pho is, after all, a global Pho-nomenon.
C.T. Huynh, Publisher, http://www.lovingpho.com/
0 comments:
Post a Comment